The staff is friendly and the room pleasant, with attractive flower arrangements in the alcoves. However, they charge an outrageous 2200 yen per hour late check-out fee, otherwise if you want to leave your bag past 10:00AM it sits in the lobby with a sheet over it. Dinner was good, attractively presented though not top quality, the eel was disappointing compared to Kawatoyo in town, which I recommend highly. I did find the tiny fugu in the paper hot bowl very tasty. The onsen is purely utilitarian and unadorned, more like a sanatorium than typical of a ryokan or honten. Still, if you want to observe the 6:00AM goma (Sanskrit 'homa') fire ritual at Shinshoji, which is solemn and impressive, a high point of Shingon Buddhism, there is no better place to stay. Tourist buses only begin to arrive around 9:30, the temple grounds are quite peaceful until then.