We stayed here for three nights as our base for an exploration of this beautiful area, including, of course, the surrealist jungle fantasia of Las Pozas. How wonderful it was to return from the garden to eat and sleep in the very place where Edward James often lived with the family of his collaborator, Plutarco Gastelum. This historic hotel is full of eccentric touches (three resident parrots; bizarre turrets and towers with magnificent views of the surrounding landscapes; etc) and memorabilia of artists ranging from Salvador Dali to Leonora Carrington. But for all its idiosyncracy, it is absolutely clean and comfortable, with bright, high-ceilinged rooms and a delicious breakfast every morning. The hotel is run by members of the same family that built it, and their pride in the place is palpable. I just can't imagine wanting to stay anywhere else while in Xilitla, and hope to return some day.